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NOTES ON AN ELEMENTARY COURSE 

IN 

House Planning 


Clinton S. VanDuesen 



THE MANUAL ARTS PRESS 
Peoria, Illinois 



& 








iW,i" r 

A 


Copyright v 

Clinton S. VanDeusen 
1916 


DEC 11 1916 





©CI.A448592 



* lb 


NOTES ON AN ELEMENTARY COURSE IN HOUSE PLANNING. 

Clinton S. Van Deusen 

Professor of Manual Arts, State Normal College, Kent, Ohio. 


S OON after entering his present posi¬ 
tion the author found a need for a 
course in house planning that would re¬ 
quire but little time from the student and 
would enable those taking it to understand 
simple house plans. 

After three years of evolution the work 
of the course has been quite definitely or¬ 
ganized and the notes given below are 
now used with good effect to assist in 
making the most of the limited time avail¬ 
able. They are given here in the belief 
that others will find the notes helpful in 
meeting a similar need. The course is 
preceded by a forty-five hour course in 
mechanical drawing in which the use of 
the tee-square, triangles, pencil and ruling 
pen get a fair share of attention, and on 
each day ten minutes is devoted to letter¬ 
ing. 

The course in house planning is also a 
forty-five hour course, but more time 
should be allowed for it, as in this length 
of time, will beginning students the 
work can only be done in pencil, and not 
all of the students will complete Problem 
4. Very little originality is expected with 
the first problem, but opportunity for ori- 


A THREE-ROOM COTTAGE. 

Problem I. To make a plan and two 
elevations of a three-room rectangular cot¬ 
tage 15'x22'. 

A. Make a freehand sketch of plan 
on half-inch squared paper to a scale of 
Walls are to be 6" thick and 
represented as in Fig. 1. Outside doors 
are to be 2' 3" wide; inside doors are to 


b 



be 2’ wide; and they are to be represented 
as at A and B in Fig. 1. Windows are 
to be 1' 10" wide and are to be represented 
as at C in Fig. 1. Show three steps at 
outside doors as at D in Fig. 1. 

Letter the name of each room, and also 


nnr 













l 

l 













O 

/ 

2 

3 

4 

<5 

6 

7 

Q 

$ 

/o 

LL 














fig. 2. 

ginality increases as the course advances, letter below the drawing “Plan of Cot- 
By limiting this originality on the part of tage.” Consider the front of the cottaee as 
the weaker students, they may cover the . the bottom of the drawing when doing 
course and get the fundamentals of it. y this lettering. 

3 


































4 


AN ELEMENTARY COURSE IN HOLSE PLANNING 


B. ■ Make a paper scale of Yz —1' as in 
Fig. 2. Consult instructor for method of 
dividing first half-inch into twelfths. 

C. Make a mechanical drawing of the 
plan from the sketch made in A using the 
scale made in B. The size of paper to be 
used is 12"xl9". 

si 



O 

£ 

£ 


F 


W 

£ 

Pu 



CQ 


Make the entire drawing with light 
lines, all lines extending a little farther 
than they will be needed. Lines repre¬ 
senting doors should make an angle of 30° 
wfith the wall on which they swing. 

Intensify, with the conical point of the 
hard pencil, all horizontal lines, then ver¬ 
tical lines, and last, the slanting lines. 


Clean off all lines not intensified, and 
letter. 

D. Make a mechanical drawing show¬ 
ing details of part of a house frame. 

Tack a sheet of paper with its left end 
about Y" from the left end of the board. 

Draw, as in Fig. 3, a horizontal ground 
line about Y" f rom the bottom of the 
sheet and a vertical line for the outside of 
the wall about 2" from the left end of 
the paper. Draw details of foundation, 
floor, side wall and ceiling, using the scale 
made in B. 

Above the detail of house frame just 
drawn, draw the diagram in Fig. 4, show¬ 
ing the pitch of the roof. Use 3/8 as 
the pitch in drawing the diagram, and 
make C D 8” long. 

Draw the kwver line of the tail of the 
rafter, Fig. 3, parallel to the left line of 
the pitch diagram, Fig. 4. Draw the up¬ 
per line of the rafter parallel to this line 
and 2" from it, Fig. 3. Represent the 


A 



B 


FIG. 4. 

lower edge of the rafter by a line parallel 
to and 4" from the line just drawn. The 
line representing the upper surface of the 
roof boards should be parallel to and 1" 
from the upper line of the rafter. The 
vertical line for the end of the tail of the 
rafter should be 11" outside of the wall, 

Fig. 3. 

The vertical lines showing the spacing 
for the foundation, siding, doors, win¬ 
dows, steps and shingles are to be drawn 
later when drawing the elevations. 

E. Make a mechanical drawing of the 
narrower elevation of the cottage on the 
same sheet of paper as used for D. 

Slip the end of the paper used for C 





























AN ELEMENTARY COURSE IN HOUSE PLANNING 


5 


under the upper edge of the paper used for 
D so that the wall of the plan will be 
close to the upper edge of the paper, and 
tack thru both sheets. 

Using the triangle on the tee-square, 
draw lightly, vertical lines even with the 
corners of the house and even with the 
sides of the doors and windows that will 
show on this elevation. The sheet with 
the plan on may now be removed. 

Use tee-square, and draw on a level 
with the point M, two short lines crossing 

i . 


z 


the two vertical corner lines of the cot¬ 
tage. Thru the two points located by the 
intersection of these horizontal and verti¬ 
cal lines draw lines parallel to the two 
slanting lines of the pitch diagram for the 
roof lines. Also draw lines parallel to 
these 4" inside of them for the edges of 
the facia boards; also draw two others 
parallel to and 6" inside of those just 
drawn for the lower edges of the frieze 
boards. Draw four short vertical lines; 
two of them 11" and two of them 12" 
outside of the corner lines of the house 
and at such a height that when the two 
upper slanting lines are extended they will 
intersect them. Draw the vertical lines 
for the inner edges of the corner boards 




FIG. S. 


parallel to and 4" inside of the lines for 
the corners of the house. 

Draw the vertical door line as shown in 
Fig. 3, showing the heights of all hori¬ 
zontal lines for the doors and also the 
vertical window line showing the heights 
of all horizontal lines for the windows. 
The heights to be located on these lines 
may be determined from Figs. 5 and 6. 
The bottom of the door is to be even with 



fig. 6. 


the top of the floor, and the upper casings 
and drip caps of the doors and windows 
are to be on the same level. Draw lightly 
all horizontal lines for the doors and 
windows to be shown in this elevation. 
Also draw the additional vertical lines for 
the doors and windows. 

Draw, as in Fig. 3, the vertical step 
line. The top of the upper step should 
be even with the bottom of the door sill. 
The space from the top of the upper step 
to the ground line should be divided into 
three equal parts. (Consult the instructor 
for the method to be used in doing this.) 
These divisions give the tops of the other 












































6 


AN ELEMENTARY COURSE IN HOUSE PLANNING 


steps. Represent the treads of the steps 
as thick. Draw lightly the outline of 
steps as in Fig. 7 or Fig. 8. 

Draw, as in Fig. 3, the vertical foun¬ 
dation and siding line. Measure off on it 
2" spaces for the foundation and 4" spaces 
for the siding. 

From the upper end of the left slanting 
roof line, measure down 5" for the width 



fig. 7. 


of the saddle board, and beginning at the 
point where the outer short vertical line 
intersects the same slanting roof line, 
measure up on it 6" spaces for the shingles. 
Now draw the vertical shingle line, and 
using the tee-square draw short lines inter¬ 
secting this vertical line level with the top 
of the roof and with each point located 
on the slanting roof line. Also draw a 
short line level with the lowest point of 
the facia hoard, which is where the line 
for the inner edge of the facia board in¬ 
tersects the inner short vertical line. A 
letter S should be made by the space on 
the vertical shingle line that is level with 
the saddle board and a letter F by the 
space that is level with the facia board. 

Intensify all horizontal lines for win¬ 
dows, doors and steps. Intensify all verti¬ 
cal lines for windows, doors and steps. In¬ 
tensify, as you draw it in, the line between 
the foundation and the siding. Intensify 
the roof lines to the outer short vertical 
lines, the facia lines to the inner short 
vertical lines, the frieze line to the corner 
of the house and the inner short vertical 
line between the roof line and the facia 
line. Intensify the corner line of the house 
from the line between the foundation and 


siding to the facia line, and the line for 
the inner edge of the corner board from 
the same line to the frieze line. Also in¬ 
tensify as you draw two vertical lines be¬ 
tween the ground line and the line at the 
top of the foundation; each line to be 1" 
inside of the corner line of the house. 
Starting at the top, intensify as you draw 
the horizontal siding and foundation lines. 
Draw a light horizontal line 34" below 
the ground line. Beginning at a point 1" 
inside of each corner of the house measure 
off on this line 4" spaces until even with 
the nearer side of the steps or if no steps 
cover part of the foundation, to the middle 
of the house. Intensify as you draw the 
short vertical lines for the bricks as in Fig. 
8. Behind the steps, or near the middle 
of the house, there will be some bricks 
less than 8'' long. 

Clean off all parts of lines not intensi¬ 
fied and letter title of sheet “Front Ele- 


FIG. 8. 

vation of Cottage” or “Side Elevation of 
Cottage.” 

F. Make a mechanical drawing of the 
wider elevation of cottage. 

Do not remove the paper you have been 
using from the board, but tack another 
sheet over it. This should be farther to 
the right so as to just expose the vertical 
lines at the left of the elevation. Slip the 
long edge of the paper used for C under 
the upper edge of the paper just tacked on 
so that the wall of the plan will be close 
to the upper edge of the paper, and tack 
thru the three sheets. 

Using a triangle on the tee-square, draw 
lightly the vertical lines even with the 








































AN ELEMENTARY COURSE IN HOUSE PLANNING 


7 





















































































































































































































































































































































































































AN ELEMENTARY COURSE IN HOUSE PLANNING 


corners of the house and even with the 
sides of the doors and windows that will 
show on this elevation. The sheet with 
the plan on may now be removed. Draw 
the horizontal lines for the doors and 
windows, using the vertical door and 
window lines that are exposed at the left 
end of the sheet. Also draw in lightly 
the steps as you did on the other elevation, 
using the same vertical step line. Draw 



lightly a long vertical line 12" outside of 
each corner line. Draw two' light hori¬ 
zontal lines crossing these lines, the upper 
one being level with the highest mark on 
the vertical shingle line and the lower one 
level with the lowest mark on the shingle 
line. The first line represents the top of 
the roof and the last line is to represent 
the lower edge of the facia board. Inten¬ 
sify as you draw the horizontal line be¬ 
tween the foundation and the siding, and 
the vertical lines for the inner edges of 
the corner boards between the horizontal 
lines just drawn and the lower edge of the 
facia board. Intensify all lines for the 
windows, doors and steps. Intensify as 
you draw the vertical lines 1" inside of 
the corners of the house between the 
ground line and the line above the founda¬ 
tion, also the outer long vertical lines be¬ 
tween the upper line of the roof and the 
upper line of the facia board. Draw a 
light line below the ground line, and 


measure off 4' spaces on it for the foun¬ 
dation as when drawing the other eleva¬ 
tion. Also draw a light horizontal line 
above the upper horizontal roof line and 
measure off in a similar manner 5" spaces 
on it for the shingles. Intensify as you 
draw the horizontal lines for the shingles, 
siding and foundation, also the short verti¬ 
cal lines to represent the sides of the 
shingles and the ends of the bricks. Re¬ 
member that the space level with S on the 
vertical shingle line is to be left clear to 
represent the saddle board and that the 
space level with F on the vertical shingle 
line is to be left clear to represent the 
facia board. Short vertical lines should 
be intensified as drawn for the ends of the 
facia board. These lines should be 11" 
outside of the corners of the house. In¬ 
tensify the lower edge of the facia board. 

Clean off all parts of lines not intensi¬ 
fied and letter title of sheet “Front Ele¬ 
vation of Cottage” or “Side Elevation of 
Cottage.” 

AN L-SHAPED COTTAGE. 

Problem II. To make a plan and two 
elevations of an L shaped cottage 20'x27'. 
Neither part of the L should be wider 
than 17', and there should be a difference 



of at least 1' in the widths of the two parts 
of the L. 

A. Make freehand sketches of two 
plans on half-inch squared paper; one hav¬ 
ing the 27' dimension parallel to the street 
and the other having it at right angles to 
the street. A porch should be represented 
as in Fig. 9 in the angle of the L. A 
chimney having an 8" flue should be lo- 



































AN ELEMENTARY COURSE IN HOUSE PLANNING 


9 


cated in an interior partition, and it should 
be represented as in Fig. 10. The size of 
the doors and windows may be varied for 
this cottage if desired. (Consult the in¬ 
structor for the stock sizes of these.) 

B. When the instructor has approved 
both of these sketched plans select the one 
that suits you best and make a mechanical 
drawing of it, using the half-inch scale. 

C. Make a vertical detail of the 
house frame as explained in D, Problem 1. 
Use the same data except for the pitch of 
the roof which should be 9/16, and the 
clear story should be 8'. Remember to 
locate the point M on this detail. Also 
draw the vertical door line, window line, 
step line and foundation and siding line. 

D. On the same sheet as used for C, 
draw that part of the elevation that will 
show the narrower gable. 

The general plan of the roof is to be 
similar to that shown in Fig. 11. The 
long line extending thru the middle of one 
part of the L represents the higher ridge 
on the roof with the two wider gables at 
the ends of it. The shorter line thru the 
middle of the other part of the L, at right 
angles to the long ridge line but not touch¬ 
ing it, represents a lower ridge with the 
narrower gable at its outer end. The two 



fig. 11. 


slanting lines represent valleys in the roof. 

Slip the plan made in B under the paper 
used for C so that the short ridge line will 
be at right angles to, and the narrow gable 
will be just above the upper edge of the 
paper, and tack it in this position. Draw 
lightly the vertical lines for the three vis¬ 
ible corners of the house, for the windows, 


doors and for the chimney. Locate the 
two points level with the point M on the 
two vertical lines that represent the end 
with the narrower gable. Draw the two 
slanting roof lines, the facia lines, the 
frieze lines and the four short vertical 
lines, two of them 11" and two of them 
12" outside of the corner lines of the 
house. Draw lightly the horizontal line 
for the top of the foundation, the vertical 
lines for the two corner boards, the hori¬ 
zontal lines for the doors and windows 
and a vertical shingle line for this gable. 



In making this shingle line do not forget 
to make a mark level with the lowest point 
of the facia board. 

E. Draw part of the elevation that 
will show the wider gable. Another sheet 
of paper should now be tacked over the 
partly completed elevation with the detail 
of the frame and the vertical height lines 
exposed at the left. Also slip under the 
upper edge of this sheet the plan made in 
B, with the outer angle of the L at the 
top and with the line representing the 
wider gable close to the upper edge of the 
paper. Draw lightly the vertical lines for 
the three corners, the windows, doors, and 
chimney. Locate the two points level with 
the point M for the wider gable. Draw 
the slanting roof lines, facia lines, frieze 
lines and the four short vertical lines, two 
of them 11" and two of them 12" outside 
of the corner lines of the house. Draw 
lightly the horizontal lines for the top of 
the foundation, and for the doors and 







































10 


AN ELEMENTARY COURSE IN HOUSE PLANNING 


windows. On the sheet with the other 
details, draw the vertical lines for the two 
corner boards and a separate vertical 
shingle line for this gable. Draw a hori- 





> 


s 

- 1 -*“? 

1 

=r=bx= 

! !| 

rri 


—n 

i j 

, 1 , 

1 . 1 

_1___ u 

1 1. 


, ..LJ 


T « | 

1 1) 

n i i i I i 


FIG. 14. 


zontal line even with the highest point on 
the shingle line. This represents the top 


other vertical height lines, with its highest 
mark 18'’ above the highest point of the 
wider gable, and lay off 2" spaces from 
that end down. Draw the horizontal lines 
for the chimney as in Fig. 12, if the chim 
ney is behind the lower ridge. If the chim¬ 
ney passes thru the large sloping roof and 
no part of it is behind the lower ridge the 
bottom of it will be shown as in Fig. 13. 
If the chimney passes thru the smaller 
roof, in front of the ridge, the bottom of 
it will be shown as in Fig. 14. The height 
of the line H, Fig. 14, should be deter¬ 
mined from the other elevation. If this 
elevation is the one that is 27' wide, re¬ 
move this sheet of paper for the present. 
On the elevation that is 20' wide the 



fig. 15. 


of the lower ridge. Draw a long vertical porch should be drawn as shown in Fig. 
line 12" outside of the third corner line. 15. The line N is the third corner line 
Make a vertical chimney line near the of the house. The floor of the porch is 


























































































AN ELEMENTARY COURSE IN HOUSE PLANNING 


11 


the upper tread of the steps. Draw the 
vertical step line as in Fig. 3. The bricks 
of the porch foundation are on a level with 
those of the foundation of the house. Make 
the pitch of the porch 1/16, and draw 
lightly, the pitch diagram above the porch. 
Extend the slanting lines that represent 
the facia board until they join with the 
lines for the facia board on the steeper roof. 
The two horizontal lines of the porch 
frieze board shquld be extended until they 
join the outer line of the middle corner 
board. 


The porch should be drawn on the 
other elevation before intensifying it. All 
lines not intensified should be cleaned off, 
and the title “Front Elevation,” “Back 
Elevation,” or “Side Elevation” should be 
lettered on each sheet. 

STAIR DRAFTING. 

Problem III. To draw the plan and 
elevation of stairs. The clear story in the 
first floor of the house is to be 8' 9" and 
the thickness of the second floor is to be 


WALL 


WELL HOLE 



If this i.s not the sheet with the detail 
on, it is ready for intensifying and this 
should be done in the following order: 
chimney, steps, porch, doors and windows, 
facia, frieze and corner boards, shingles 
and foundation. 

If this is the elevation with the detail 
on it, the horizontal line for the ridge of 
the higher gable, the two vertical lines 
12" outside of the two outer corner lines 
and the chimney should be drawn before 
intensifying. 


9Yi”. The rise of each step is to be be¬ 
tween 7" and 9". The run of one step 
is to be extended to form a 4' landing and 
the run of all others is to be 10". The 
landing is to be at such a height that it 
will allow for a clear story of at least 6' 
6" below it, with the floor of the landing 
9^4" thick. The head room on the stairs 
is to be 6' 3". The length of each tread 
is to be 3’ 3". Fig. 16 illustrates the fram¬ 
ing of such stairs and also makes clear 
many of the terms used. The rise of a 















































12 


AN ELEMENTARY COURSE IN HOUSE PLANNING 


single step is the actual distance a person 
is raised when stepping from one step to 
the next one above. The riser is the 
vertical board that is nailed against the 
vertical part of the string. The rise of 
the stairs is the sum of the rises of all the 
steps. The run of a single step is the hori¬ 
zontal distance from the face of one riser 


steps. This will give you the maximum 
and minimum number of steps allowed by 
this problem. Select some number be¬ 
tween these two as the number of steps 
you will use, and divide the rise of the 
stairs by this number to determine the 
rise of each step. Sketch the first step 
lightly, beginning near the left end 




to the face of the next riser. The board 
on which a person steps is called the tread. 
The run of the stairs is the sum of the 
runs of all the steps except the top one 
which is in reality the second floor. 

A. Sketch } as in Fig. IJ, the plan and 
elevation of the stairs on half-inch squared 
paper to a scale of Figure the 

total rise of the stairs and sketch lightly 
the two floor lines, the lowest one being 
very near the bottom of the sheet. Figure 
the rise of each step. This may be done 
by dividing the total rise by the greatest 
(9") and least (7") possible rise of single 


of your sheet of paper. Figure the height 
of the second step from the first floor line, 
and sketch the second step. Figure the 
height of the third step from the first floor 
line , and sketch third step. Continue in 
this manner until all steps are shown in 
the elevation, but before getting too high, 
determine which step is to be extended to 
form the landing. Next determine the 
length of the well hole to provide the 
necessary head room, and sketch it on the 
elevation. Sketch a 2' 3"x6' door enter¬ 
ing under the landing, a newel post 5" 
square and 3' high on the first tread, also 











































































































































AN ELEMENTARY COURSE IN HOUSE PLANNING 


13 


two such posts on the landing and three 
on the second floor. The left side of the 
right-hand post on the landing should be 
10" from the riser to the right of it. Draw 
a hand rail 2 'x3" meeting the lower newel 
post 2' 9" above the tread and running 
parallel to the angles of the steps. Two 
1" square spindles should be shown ex¬ 
tending from each step to the hand rail 
and a portion of the railing on the second 
floor should also be shown. The plan 
should now’ be sketched directly above the 
elevation. Start by sketching a line near 
the top of the paper to represent the far¬ 
ther vertical wall. The width of the well 
hole should be 3' 6". The plan of the 
steps, landing and railing should now be 
drawn. Parts not showing thru the well 
hole should be shown by invisible lines. 
Intensify sketch, and have it approved. 

B. Make a mechanical drawing from 
the sketch , using the scale of It 

is convenient when making this drawing 
to use a vertical step line, a vertical door 
line and a horizontal step line as shown 
in Fig. 17. On the step line locate the 
mark even with the top of the first floor 
and the one even with the top of the sec¬ 
ond floor and by using dividers, divide the 
distance between these two marks into the 
correct number of parts. 


A TWO-STORY HOUSE. 

Problem IV. To draw plans and ele¬ 
vations of a two-story house. 

A. Sketch at least two sets of plans on 
/" squared paper, to a scale of X Z"=\\ 
for the first and second story, giving par¬ 
ticular attention to the location of chim¬ 
neys on both plans, and to the study of the 
stair problem. The important things to 
be determined about the stairs are the ex¬ 
act location of the first step on the lower 
floor plan, the exact location of the top 
step on the upper floor plan and whether 
proper head room is provided both on the 
stairs and in rooms and passage ways un¬ 
der the stairs. Remember that a landing 
is simply an extended tread, and that the 
steps above it may continue in the same 
direction as in Problem III, or they may 
continue from the landing at right angles 
to, or even in the reverse direction to that 
taken by the steps below the landing. 

No limits are given for your plans, but 
simplicity is advised. Stock sizes of doors, 
windows, etc., may be secured from the 
instructor. 

B. Make mechanical drawing from 
these sketches , using a scale of Z"— 1". 
This will be supplied by the instructor. 

C. Make front elevation and follow 
with the others. 






Books on the Manual Arts 


..'.....====*.......:::::::........... . .... 


• INNING WOODWORK. By Van Deusen. A valuable textbook presenting- a full and 

clear description m detail oi the fundamental processes of elementary benchwork in wood. It 
is based upon a course of useful projects and is adapted for use in school or at home. $1.00. 

DEMONSTRATIONS IN WOODWORK. By Van Depsen. A textbook for rural schools 
consisting of a series of leaflets, each describing in detail the process of making one project. 

leaflet shows a photograph of the project in use and a working drawing and numerous 
illustrations of the tool processes required to construct it. The descriptions are unusually clear 
and well organized step by step. The demonstrations are arranged in sets, each set complete in 
itself, wets 1 Nos. 1, 2 and 3 each 25 cents. Ring binder to hold three sets, 40- cents. 


CORRELATED COURSES IN WOODWORK AND MECHANICAL DRAWING. By Griffith. 

Contains reliable information concerning organization of courses, subject matter, and methods 
of teaching. It covers classification and airangement of tool operations, stock bills, cost of 
material, records, shop conduct, the lesson, maintenance, equipment and lesson outlines for 
grammar and high schools. The most complete and thoro treatment of the subject of teaching- 
woodworking- ever published. $1.50. 


PROBLEMS IN FARM WOODWORK. By Blackburn. A book of working drawings of 
100 practical problems relating to agriculture and farm life. E ! ach problem is accompanied 
by text treating of “Purpose.” “Material,” “Bill of Stock,” “Tools,” “Directions,” and “As¬ 
sembly.” Of special value to the pupil and teacher of agriculture and manual arts in rural 
schools, and to the boy on the farm. $1.00. 


PROBLEMS IN FURNITURE MAKING. By Crawshaw. Contains 43 full-page working 
drawings of articles of furniture. In addition to the working drawings, there is a perspective 
sketch of each article completed. There are 36 pages of text giving notes' on the construction 
of each project, chapters on the “Design,” and “Construction” of furniture, and one on 
“Finishes.” The last chapter describes 15 methods of wood finishing, all adapted for use on 
furniture. $1.00. 


FURNITURE DESIGN FOR SCHOOLS AND SHOPS. By Crawshaw. A manual on 
furniture design containing a collection of plates showing perspective drawings of typical 
designs, representing particular types of furniture. Each perspective is accompanied by sug¬ 
gestions for rearrangements and the modeling of parts. The text discusses and illustrates 
principles of design as applied to furniture. $1.00. 

BIRD HOUSES BOYS CAN BUILD. By Siepert. A book of rare interest to boys. It 
illustrates hundreds of bird houses and shows working drawings of various designs, also 1 feeders 
shelters, sparrow traps, and other bird accessories. The common house nesting birds are 
pictured and described with information regarding houses, foods, etc., suitable for each. A 
pleasing and practical book for wide-awake boys. 50 cents. 

GRAMMAR GRADE PROBLEMS IN MECHANICAL DRAWING. By Bennett. A remark¬ 
ably simple and carefully graded textbook on the fundamentals of mechanical drawing. Adapted 
to the seventh and eighth grades. 38 cents. 

PROBLEMS IN MECHANICAL DRAWING. By Bennett. A students' textbook consisting 
of SO plates of problems classified into groups according to principle, and arranged according 
to difficulty of solution. Each problem is given unsolved and therefore in proper form to hand 
to the pupil for solution. The best collection -of problems for first year high school students 
available. 75 cents. 


SIMPLIFIED MECHANICAL PERSPECTIVE. By Frederick. A textbook of simple prob¬ 
lems covering the essentials of mechanical perspective. It is planned for pupils of high school 
age who have already received some elementary training in mechanical drawing. It is simple, 
direct and practical. 75 cents. 

ART IN DRESS WITH NOTES ON HOME DECORATION. By Bolmar and McNutt. A 

textbook for high and normal school students of domestic art. it is. a clear and direct treat¬ 
ment of the fundamental principles of art applied to. dress, millinery 1 and home decoration. A 
valuable aid in establishing guiding principles in dress. 35 cents. 

CLASSROOM PRACTICE IN DESIGN. By Haney. A concise, up-to-date, richly illustrated 
brochure on the teaching of applied design. 50 cents. 

THE WASH METHOD OF HANDLING WATER-COLOUR. By Frederick. A brief, clear, 
comprehensive text printed in sepia and illustrated with wash drawings and a water-color 
painting by the author. 50 cents. 


“Books on the Manual Arts’’ a bibliography describing over 
400 titles, mailed free. 


... 

..mini.. 


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............mu 


Published by The Manual Arts Press, Peoria, Illinois 








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